Vegan in the Alentejo.
Where can I eat well as a vegan or vegetarian?
I have been living in the Alentejo since 2008. When we first moved here, vegan was a word that meant nothing to most people. Not eating meat, they thought that was very strange. But also no fish, no milk, no cheese, no eggs. What can you eat then?
Strange, because you can get a lot of vegetables at the market here. But almost everything is either used in soups or stews.
Chickpeas, brown beans and black-eyed beans are also eaten a lot. So the ingredients are there!
A lot has changed in the last few years. Mainly because more tourists came, many hiking tourists, a percentage of whom are vegetarian or at least want to eat more vegetables.
And in recent years, Portugal has become a Valhalla for people who want to live in communities. And in between there are many people who eat little or no animal products. As a result, vegan products are increasingly available in stores. Our health food store (herbanaria) in Odemira, Instinto Natural, really has everything.
There are a few of vegetarian restaurants and almost all restaurats have something vegetarian or vegan on the menu.
The Happy Cow app makes it easy to find most places these days. But here are some of my personal favorites near Portugal Nature Lodge.
The café in our village of Troviscais, at the time of writing (2024), has a very tasty vegan salad and sometimes a vegan daily snack on the menu.
And of course, Joke regularly cooks a delicious plant-based meal that is brought to your tent. Breakfast is also vegan. Except for the eggs from our own chickens, if you like.
The order below has nothing to do with quality. You can eat well at any of these restaurants.
1. Cantinho do Mercado
First, because they are all vegetarian, with vegan options always available: Cantinho do Mercado in Vila Nova de Milfontes.
Unfortunately not always open, you have to check their Instagram page. On Thursday nights there is often a DJ and a cozy atmosphere. Not only vegans come here. No choice, usually just a daily snack, but always tasty and nicely served.
Casual atmosphere, also a co-working space.
2. Second is Yabalulu.
A vegetarian beach bar.
Located on Furnas Beach, on the other side of the Mira River from V.N. de Milfontes. Yabalulu is vegetarian but has some vegan options. Nice and tasty food.
A vegetarian beach bar with tasty cocktails that is also popular, don’t miss it!
3. ArTerra in São Luis
Hip, atmospheric and cozy, the upstairs balcony terrace overlooks the village. Popular for tapas, but you can also get a nice burger or salad here. Several vegetarian and vegan options. Cocktails and fine wines also available, with ambient music.
4. Espaço Nativa in São Luis.
Located on the outskirts of town. A bit alternative and a bit messy, but definitely fun to eat. Ask if the food is vegan, it’s mostly vegetarian and sometimes they put cheese on things you wouldn’t expect. Occasionally they serve (local) meat, so always check if they don’t have ‘dia do carne’.
6. O Ferrador in São Luis
Restaurant in an old blacksmith’s shop with a cozy shaded terrace across from the daily market in São Luis.
Mainly meat, but for vegetarians they have a couscous dish that is beautifully done. Ask for it without feta and it’s vegan.
7. The Riverside Pub in Milfontes
Has a vegetarian burger and falafel wrap. Without the sauce it is vegan.
Good beers and cocktails and a wonderful view over the river where it flows into the ocean.
Pizza in Vila Nova de Milfontes:
La Bella Pizza has a good vegan pizza. They used to have a very tasty one without cheese, but since the rise of vegan “cheese” they now use this.
Pizza Domingo, a pop-up pizza restaurant every Sunday in Lameiros, a few kilometers from São Luis, also has tasty vegan pizza and some vegetarian.